Essential viewing for any man thinking about purchasing his first perfectly balance, bespoke, single buttoned jacket or suit. Established in 1849, Huntsman remains a place of anecdotes. At the front, there’s an immaculate gentlemen’s bicycle with basket, a horse saddle, a grand old fireplace and two stag heads (said to have been left behind by a customer on his way to lunch). At the back, the cutting rooms are clearly visible, where they work on measurements, patterns and the long mahogany tables. This is where, as tradition has it, your “sales advisor” will unroll the cloths for you to choose materials. The main workroom is below ground and should you go bespoke, you will be invited for a full show round and an insight into the intricacies of their skilled techniques. Here too you’ll find the Pattern Room, with its historical fascinating archive of five thousand patterns.
Most clientele decide to go for the Huntsman house-style — a single buttoned hybrid of a classic riding coat and and dinner jacket, hallmarked with firm shoulders and an elegant sculped waist. However, on bespoke, double breasted and, dare we say, a two or three buttoned jacket can be knocked up too.
The ready to wear is still very conservative with basically four materials, still maintaining their legendary style of a single button and their signature waistband adjusters or side straps. The woollen grey trousers I tried on at £220, were surprisingly designed to house a belt and felt comfortable, whilst a navy blazer with a single golden button, at £1195, unfortunately did not come in a short length that is typically available. The jackets are quite fitted and structured, and the fitter advised on the availability of made-to-measure, but not in a pushy way. Bespoke is made on the premises, whilst the made-to-measure are sent to the factory. customers with a posture problem are usually advised to go bespoke.
Also on ready to wear are blue check jackets and tweeds as well as brown trousers. For small alterations expect to pay about £50. Huntsman is perfect for men who are looking for timeless, quietly reassured look. The fitters are adept at explaining, charmingly, a garment’s shortcomings — such as the trousers being too tight — and explaining how they could be let out. Made-to-measure suits are £2310 and there is flexibility to move to two or three button jackets — allow 6-8 weeks to finish. Bespoke takes 3-4 fittings over a minimum of 12 weeks. Two piece from about £3899. A women’s bespoke service is available by appointment Mon-Fri 10-3pm.
The changing room is large and rich n wood panelling, a leather armchair and on the wall personal pattern sheets of Sir Laurence Olivier, Gordon Banks and other famous clients.
A valeting service is available where the resident presser re-shapes a jacket or coat, virtually restoring it back to its original appearance.
Huntsman also has hand-made shirts, including those of outstanding quality, made from West Indian Sea Island cotton, plus ties, handkerchiefs and braces.
Address
11 Savile Row
London
W1S 3PS
020 7734 7441
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